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vacation

gone fishing....see you in a week

spring break

i'm back in the u.s. and visiting family.  it only took about 24 hours to make it from vladivostok to des moines.  the flight from CA to IA always feels like a commute now after taking a 13hr international flight.  it was nice to have an itinerary with a maximum of only 2 hours at each stop.  but still the worse part was just trying to sleep on an economy flight going overseas.  i can handle everything except the soreness of having to sit in a seat for hours on end.  but in between naps and movies, i would walk around and just stretch my tired limbs.

the first leg of my trip was vlad to seoul, the russian terminal was modern enough by today's standards but i did notice people would sneak a last minute smoke before the flight, in the men's room. it was a 1/2 empty plane with about 30 people.  i decided to find an empty row before we took off.  no offense to the russian teenager that i had originally been placed with.  but after listening to him play games on his cell phone and feeling his elbow and leg spastically hitting mine, i decided we both could use a little personal space.

the second leg was a flight from seoul to los angeles.  i had a couple hours in seoul before my plane was scheduled to leave.  i walked around a bit and look for something to eat, even though i wasn't hungry.  eventually, i just found a spot at the terminal and settled into one of the books i brought, "the ugly american" - by eugene burdick and william lederer.  the title, i had assumed, was given by other countries when they had encountered americans that were ill mannered and living abroad.  but after reading the book, i discovered it was for an american hero in the book that was described as physically ugly.  the book is somewhat dated but many of the foreign service policy problems still exist since its writing in 1958. 

"For some reason, the people I meet in my country are not the same as the ones I knew in the United States. A mysterious change seems to come over Americans when they go to a foreign land. They isolate themselves socially. They live pretentiously. They're loud and ostentatious." -burmese journalist, the ugly american

sadly there's a lot of truth in that..

the flight to LA went well aside from my case of tired butt fatigue.  the plane was filled with about 99% koreans.  so everyone was speaking korean which i basically only know how to say hello in.  i do love the flight though since everyone is very polite and quiet.  i'd have time soon enough to hear shouts and complaining after i'd land in the u.s.  so i wasn't surprised when we landed when i walked through u.s. immigration, to hear the first complaints in english about long lines and missing flights.  sigh.

i had to hussle to make it to my united ticket counter to get my domestic boarding ticket. i had 30 minutes to make it to the gate and also check it with my mom and dad.  the counter agent sweetly issued my ticket, but not before circling my pass with the dreaded red felt tip.  mental note, allow another 5 minutes for an individual security screening. 

i made it to the gate with 5 minutes to spare before boarding, so i got my call in and grabbed a quick coffee.  the flight to des moines was a nice way to decompress after the long one from seoul.  i grabbed a quick nap and then struck up a conversation with my seat mate, a young woman from phoenix doing some computer consulting in des moines.  i never want to bother anyone on a flight, and end up being "that guy" that wouldn't shut up.  so i always stop once in awhile and give people an out, like "well i'm probably keeping you from your work, book, etc."  but it turned out to be a nice visit and helped the flight pass quickly. 

within minutes after landing i met my dad at the arrival gate and we were off to get my bags and start the 2 1/2 drive home.

give me a ticket for an airplane..

due to complications i'd rather not go into, i wasn't able to leave vlad like i thought i would this week.  so we'll see what happens in the upcoming week.  everything leading up to my departure was preplanned well in advance, however i let one detail go unchecked and it cost me when i tried to go through immigration.  but through the whole process of leaving the country for vacation, i have to say i felt more frustrated with myself than anyone else. 

so after my visa problem, i started working damage control. i was still at the airport. i had to grab my checked bags, change my ticket, work out the details on my visa, find a phone, and get a ride back home.  getting my bags was no problem since i had my claim check.  after that i walked outside to think for a minute and find a phone.  a taxi pulled up and the driver asked if i needed a ride.  i knew i would but wasn't ready to leave yet.  my first mistake was asking how much to go back to the city.  he was a little too quick with the reply and said "2000 roubles" which works out to $80US.  i thanked him and passed.  unfortunately, he wanted to haggle.  now i was not only upset i wasn't on a plane for the states, but now had to deal with a cabbie that followed me on foot everywhere i went.  after several minutes of me looking for a public phone i happened to walk by someone speaking english.  i asked if i could make a local call to my office.  they lent me the phone and i put a call into work.  after telling work what had happened, i also asked what's the going rate for a cab from the hotel.  750 was a rate used by the hotels, but i knew that was a deal between the cabbies and the hotel.  so the next time i bumped into my cabbie (i didn't have to go far) i told him i pay only 1000 or $40US.  i should mention here that the cabbie didn't speak english so i have only been speaking in russian.  well, 1000 wasn't the answer he wanted to hear and he began the argument anew with the cost of benzine and parking fees.  after awhile it dawned on me that 1000 was going to be fine, if it was that much of an insult he would have walked away long ago.  i even asked another cabbie for a quote and got the standard 2000, so much for competition.  the bus is only 70 ($3US) but would take a couple hours.  the cab ride would take an hour.  as i started contemplating the bus, the cabbie finally said ok, 1000.  i didn't believe him and thought there's gotta be a catch.  maybe i'll get halfway home and he'll ask for more.  well, i had to get a ride eventually so i agreed.  after i got in the cab with my bags, i realized i hadn't changed my ticket yet. now i'd have to get the cabbie to come with me or haul my bags back to the korean air counter.  it was easier to just tell him i forgot something with my ticket and we needed to go see them.  fortunately, i caught a break and found the same woman from KA that helped translate between immigration and myself eariler.  she changed the ticket to a later date and i was off with the cabbie again. 

the last item to figure out was telling the cabbie where i needed to go.  i gave him one of the hotels as a reference and as we got into the city, i said i want to go to a different destination instead.  he was a bit confused but i got the point across that i would just show him with saying left or right in russian.  since my street is an unpaved road, not many cabs know where it is.  so it's easier to go with the main road and then just tell a driver where to turn. 

i finally made it home. the driver tried once last time to ask for 1200.  but i said no 1000 was all i agreed to pay.  what i paid him would net him at least 4-5 round trips to the airport for more fares.  so he was doing alright. 

after i dropped my bags off at home, some friends, understanding my disappointment, took me out for a few beers and i got to take my mind off the problem for awhile.

these boots are made for walking

before coming to russia, i had heard women's footwear tends to be of the high heel variety. now that i'm here and see it first hand, i have to agree. i was amazed at how they can walk in them through snow, ice and rain. i almost fell over once just wearing my dress shoes when i slipped on an icy curb. anyway, my hats off to them.

i've almost finished my packing for my trip home. i'm giving myself a couple days extra to remember anything i might have overlooked. i'm excited to pack for a 100% casual trip. usually i have to include attire for training or work. so this time they'll be plenty of extra space in my bags to for stuff i'll buy back in the states.

another busy weekend ahead. i'm meeting a friend for coffee today and also getting together with an american friend that's going to be leaving russia by the time i return from holiday. sunday has been set aside for giving a visiting coworker a tour of the city in the afternoon. i still have a few little side trips to the store i'd like to fit in sometime. before i know it i'll be on a plane again.

republic - from the dark to the bright

i found the 'republic' is one of the best places to go grab a meal and a drink. so far vlad has three locations.  i've gone several time to the one near work for lunch. they serve cafeteria-style food so it does give you the feeling you're back in high school.  and sometimes i wonder what that strange stew is next to the mashed potatoes or mixed vegetables.  i've never had any problem with the selection.  although one of my friends did get sick on a salmon pattie-thing once.  there's amble seating space that spills over into the bar, which serves both coffee and alcohol.  i've been there for the evening rush and it's always busy, but usually you can snag a table within a few minutes. 

the republic that's fartherest away, has more of a dining hall theme to it with covered tables and traditional menus (only in russian).  i've had a great chicken/potatoe salad there the last couple times.  republic often serves up special brews.  so we tend to check it out when a new one is offered.

i've noticed several places have an abundance of tables available when i've gone out to eat.  i haven't figured out why that is yet.  although i think the busiest times are usually weekend evenings.  that's the time when most places are packed with no free tables.  but during the week, it hasn't been too difficult to walk in to a new place and get a table immediately. 

another popular hang out is the presto cafe.  it's a coffee house with an excellent selection of pastries and deserts.  i've been there a couple times and plan to go back soon.  seating can get cramped like any other coffee shop but it's worth it for a good cup of coffee.

i'm finishing up last minute stuff as i get ready for a trip back to the states.  i'll miss the warm weather and friends, which both seem to be increasing in my stay here.  but it'll will be great to see family again.   

life is good

over the weekend, i received some more photos.  my friends, "p" & "m", gave me pics from our first visit together.  as you can see from the photo, i did the obligatory tourist shot of sitting on some artillery.  we've been spending a lot of time together since then.  last friday, we got together for a late dinner and then a trip to zabriskie point for dancing and a few drinks. i'd been there before and was looking forward to the company and a night out.  last time i had gone, i was ill prepared for the night in attire and being up too early in the morning.  but this time i was ready to stay out as late as the best of them. 

the dance club was just as i remembered it, classic rock and sofas everywhere. the music group that night was another cover band, with russian, latino, and american songs.  i spent part of the night chatting with my russian friends and dancing with m.  midway through the night i felt a tap on the arm and someone asking what state i was from.  but instead of the normal russian accent this was spoken with none.  it was from a girl at one of our neighboring sofas.  we spoke more and i learned she was not an american but born in vladivostok.  she'd spent a year in the states and had been speaking english for years prior to that.  i complimented her (repeatedly) on how well she spoke english.  the rest of the night was spent dancing with my new aquaintance and trying to balance the conversation between my friends and "k".  the night flew by and we all grabbed the same taxi to get home.  i made sure i took down "k"s number so we could meet again.  after the taxi dropped me off, i glanced at my phone to check the time, it was 4:49 in the morning. i barely remember crawling under my covers.

animals never need a passport

it difficult to find the right mix of what to do with free time overseas.  whenever i devote too much time to one pursuit, the others start to make me feel guilty.  if i spent time with friends over the weekend, then i  think about work.  if i work, then i'm thinking about studying.  if i study, i crave time with friends.  and then there are the hobbies that patiently wait for me until i tired of all of the above.  i can see it in other people that i work with also.  they have their desires, goals and needs.  when someone breaks off and does something new, you admire them for their adventuresome spirit, but also envy them for doing it and not getting to join in.  it seems like everyday there's an invitation to some function, activity or get together.  i tend to join when i can, but there are times when i'm just to exhausted to participate.  this may fall on deaf ears for someone that envys the life abroad.  but it's not all ballroom dancing and dinner parties as one might suspect for the diplomatic corps.  even as i write this, i received an invite by a russian friend for chinese food and a nightclub afterwards. but this is why i joined the foreign service.  i wanted to experience life in other countries and learn more about people that live in them.  the more i learn the more questions i tend to have.  what similarities we have and don't have.  it's not just my age group either, i've learned alot about those that are older and those that are younger.  more often than not, i've learned people are the same where ever i go.  they all want security in their jobs, someone to love, and the pursuit of happiness.  all of them complain about their politicians, love their families, wish they were making more money, and want to have fun. 

its really a gamble on finding a post that you will enjoy.  i've been fortunate enough to find pleasure in all my tours. i've made friends, experienced the culture and have hopefully represented myself well enough to change some of the sterotypes americans have overseas.  i've talked to friends that have ended up in a post where they thought it would be their last one.  mainly due to the fact they couldn't stand some of their co-workers.  the best thing i've learned in the short span of three tours is that working with people that gets along with is not worth spending any time dwelling on.  address the problem, move on and try not to let it bother you.  you feel better taking the high road in the long run and a few years later you can barely remember their name. 

it seems like every summer that approaches brings with it a changing of the guard.  you quickly make friends upon your arrival and then start counting the days until those friends have to move on to their next assignment or back to the states.  this post is no different.  and i'm going to miss everyone that's leaving like i usually do.  but one thing is strikingly different.  this time, i'm going to slowly become the one that's been here the longest while everyone else will be fresh off the plane.  there's a certain solice in that, with being comfortably settled.  but there also the constant reminder of friends that have left you.

no, really i like red grapes

while thoughts of freezing, snow, and ice begin to drift away, reminders of spring and summer nudge me into remembering why i endure winter.  i took a walk last weekend down to the harbor to acquaint myself with spring's early arrival here in vladivostok.  the wharfs were busy with spring cleaning and putting a fresh coat of gray on all the military vessels. several of the sailors were out white washing the surrounding brick walls.  locals were joining friends for an afternoon chat and some sunshine along the waterfront. the downtown area was bustling with pedestrians that looked happier to be outside for the first time I've seen in awhile.  hats and winter attire are starting to be replaced with short skirts for the ladies and rubber necks for men.    

with the help of a friend at work, i was able to find one of the nicer souvenir shops downtown.  i can't recall the name of it but i'll look the next time i go.  it's an old building on svetlankskaya st. with several floors, all of which contain other shops beside those for tourists.  but i was happy to finally find some authentic russian curios instead of just more imported stuff with no relation to the country.

mindless observation - there's no coffee filters to be found here.  every coffee maker i've seen has a screen filter that is cleaned after every use.  great idea for reducing waste, but damn i'm getting tired of seeing all the gunk in the bottom of my mug.  that's one item i'll be buying in bulk the next time i hit the states.

cracking a joke with my russian teacher - when asked, in russian, what's my favorite kind of grapes- i repeatedly struggle with saying "фиолетовый" (violet/purple). so without missing a beat, i quickly say "не, красныи!" (no, red!).  ..i got a big laugh out of that from her.  along with extra homework.

what's the russian word for "fog"?

it's the weekend again. i've been preparing for a trip back to the states so work has been consuming most of my time. the good news is i've been able to cross off a lot of things that have been on my to do list at work since i first arrived. the bad news is that doesn't leave much time for socializing.

the winter weather is finally on its way out, but april is a strange mix of fog and wind. for the past week there's a solid fog over the city with temps that can vary between spring like to "where's my winter coat?". but most days the fog burns off around noon and the sun comes out again. i'm hearing from friends that summer doesn't really put in an appearance until june.

my russian is coming along. some of my friends, both russian and american, have given me words of encouragement for the strides i seem to be making in the short time (5 months) that i've been hear. sometimes its strange to think i may be able to talk to friends in their native language by the time i leave. when i worked in dc, i knew coworkers that were learning english. i remember feeling it must be difficult to live in another country and not knowing the language. how ironic it is for me to be standing in a check out line in russia and being confused by the choice of which size plastic bag i want. i always think back to some of the people that stood in line before me back in dc. they must have went through the same puzzlement i'm occassionally experiencing now. maybe its karma, but i never got upset by them back then. i knew it was a city with a diverse range of inhabitants. i think i was a little curious more than anything else about what made them left or what why they wanted to come to the states. now as i stand in line to buy молоко, сыр, сарделка, хлеб, или овощиб, i know how one person can end up being the in this situation.

туман = russian word for "fog"

my dog ate my homework

it's sunday night and i haven't touched my homework for my russian class. although, my teacher should forgive me since i spent all weekend immersed in various activities which russian friends. ok, i did have friday night off but was busy with cleaning, cooking and running errands.

saturday afternoon - i met up with p and m to play billards. the place we went to was a seaside pool hall. it was much nicer than most of the haunts i remember playing during my youth. p and i played the western variety of 8 ball, while his wife m chatted with us. there's a russian variety of billards also involving large white balls with smaller pockets, it didn't look like 'snooker', but i'll have to research it and see how it's played. p said he didn't like to play it, so i didn't press further. after several matches with an aggressive tie-breaker, we finished playing and headed out to get something to eat. first stop was pizza land, but unfortunately it was closed so we went to our 2nd choice, pizza m. i have no idea where the 'm' in pizza m comes into play. my friends told me it's not as good as pizza land, but it hit the spot all the same.

p complimented me during the night on my improved russian, which shocked me since i know i'm still in the infant stages of learning. i accepted the positive remarks gracefully. i've been making some break throughs in using the verb cases correctly when talking about myself, someone else or if it's happening now, in the past, or in the future. after 5 months i guess i'm not doing to bad. i have a goal of where i'd like to be with speaking and reading after a year.

sunday afternoon - i joined g for a dance concert. she had been away for 3 weeks so i was looking forward to seeing her holiday photos from her trip to china. we met up early, purchased our tickets and then found a spot to chat and talk about her trip. her stops included shanghai, beijing and some smaller cities. included in the photos were pics of her sister and her family living in china. it was interesting to talk to someone from vladivostok that enjoyed exploring other countries. with vladivostok being so close to the border with china, i've run into many russians that take advantage of the short distance for a holiday. g was glad to be back though, as we all are at the end of a vacation, but she said it was good to see family and explore china for the first time.

the concert was getting ready to start so we made our way to our seats. the hall had every seat filled from what i could see. g told me the dance troupe traveled to other countries often. the dancers ranged in ages from very young to what i believe where young men and women in late teens. i found 2 hours flew by as i watched the diverse range of dancing being performed. while the dancing included local russian music it also borrowed from other popular music include american jazz, pop and rock. the troupe did a fantastic job and i could see they're enjoyment in all their performances. the audience recipicated their appreciation with applause that always trailed off into a steady unified clapping as the next dance act made their appearance. i was definitely impressed by the level of experience all the members of the group seemed to bring to the stage.

so another nice weekend, but now it's time to get back to my homework.